First light. It’s nearly seven in the morning as I slowly make my way through the 15th and 16th pitches (200’, 5.10d) while the sun starts to creep over the horizon. It’s at this moment, as I rest and shake out my arms between moves, that the achievement of a year-long goal starts to finally … Continue reading Time Wave Zero: Living My Dreams
Rock climbing has been an ever-evolving sport. Long gone are the simple days of static-rope leading with a bowline knot tied around your waist. The recent years have shown amazing technological advances in climbing protection which in turn has helped push the limits of our physical abilities. We now climb harder now than ever before. … Continue reading Climb Harder: How to Redpoint Smarter
My tool sinks into the pale blue ice with a reassuring thud. Sweet. I can feel my body loosen slightly with relief as I look around for my next placement. Ok, wide base. Keep your heels down. Breathe. You’re chillin’ man. No need to rush. With a hollow “pop!” my other Black Diamond Cobra shatters … Continue reading How I Learned To Ice Climb: A Solo Ascent of North Peak
We’ve all been afraid of falling at some point. We’ve all heard stories of fatal climbing accidents. We know about the risks and take the time to assess them. But we all perceive things differently.
Back in July, Justin and I made our way out to Lander, Wyoming for the 25th annual International Climbers Festival. I have a serious case of imposter syndrome and I know that I’m not exactly what you would call a “crusher”. I mean, I just started climbing a little more than a year ago and … Continue reading How I Learned to Climb: Humble Beginnings and Headspace
Unless you’re Alex Honnold, climbing typically involves two people. And if you already have a partner in life, chances are you’ll want them to be your partner on the wall as well. But what if you fall in love with someone who has no idea how to climb? You have three choices: Leave ‘em, deal … Continue reading Teaching Your Girlfriend to Climb
How often do you see someone with a helmet on and think to yourself, “What a loser!?” If you’re anything like me, it’s probably never. I tend to think that if someone is wearing a helmet, they’re probably doing something dangerous and that they’re a badass. The idea that helmets are lame is a childish … Continue reading Rock climbing: To Helmet or Not to Helmet?
“Off belay!” “That’s me!” “On belay!” “Climb when ready!” Paired with a name, these become some of the basic verbal communications used on the wall between climber and belayer. Other than the rope and a couple pieces of protection, communication is the next most important thing to keep between each other. Communication on the wall … Continue reading Climb Safe: Planning and Communication on the Wall
Living in a van leaves you with a very limited amount of storage space. However, having limited space does NOT mean you need to have a limited rack. It may not be the world's largest gear collection, but what I do have, fits comfortably in the back of my vehicle/home and has given me plenty … Continue reading Trad Climbing: It’s Not the Size of the Rack, But How You Use it.
It’s early February in Joshua Tree National Park. A light breeze whips my shirttail around and causes my already aching legs to tighten a bit more. There is nothing but the slight friction between rubber and rock that is keeping me in place. I hyperfocus on my breathing, desperately moving my hands from bump to … Continue reading My First Lead Climb: Ignorance and Triumph