First light. It’s nearly seven in the morning as I slowly make my way through the 15th and 16th pitches (200’, 5.10d) while the sun starts to creep over the horizon. It’s at this moment, as I rest and shake out my arms between moves, that the achievement of a year-long goal starts to finally … Continue reading Time Wave Zero: Living My Dreams
Rock climbing has been an ever-evolving sport. Long gone are the simple days of static-rope leading with a bowline knot tied around your waist. The recent years have shown amazing technological advances in climbing protection which in turn has helped push the limits of our physical abilities. We now climb harder now than ever before. … Continue reading Climb Harder: How to Redpoint Smarter
My tool sinks into the pale blue ice with a reassuring thud. Sweet. I can feel my body loosen slightly with relief as I look around for my next placement. Ok, wide base. Keep your heels down. Breathe. You’re chillin’ man. No need to rush. With a hollow “pop!” my other Black Diamond Cobra shatters … Continue reading How I Learned To Ice Climb: A Solo Ascent of North Peak
Climbing gear (like food or income tax) is just another one of those expensive life necessities. Other than a sponsorship or scouring a bunch of classic 5.7’s after a holiday weekend, there aren’t many ways to score free gear. Luckily though, once a year, we have the Holiday season to help strong arm and coerce … Continue reading Climbing Gear: A Christmas Gift Guide (or just good gear to buy)
We’ve all been afraid of falling at some point. We’ve all heard stories of fatal climbing accidents. We know about the risks and take the time to assess them. But we all perceive things differently.
We aren’t just talking about a shoe (sandal?) that can walk through rivers and up mountains with general ease. We are talking about a status symbol that you choose to wear on your feet. Nothing says “I care more about function than style” like strapping on some kicks designed in the paleolithic era and shit … Continue reading Hashtag Chaconation: Liberate Your Toes, Liberate Your Soul
Back in July, Justin and I made our way out to Lander, Wyoming for the 25th annual International Climbers Festival. I have a serious case of imposter syndrome and I know that I’m not exactly what you would call a “crusher”. I mean, I just started climbing a little more than a year ago and … Continue reading How I Learned to Climb: Humble Beginnings and Headspace
Unless you’re Alex Honnold, climbing typically involves two people. And if you already have a partner in life, chances are you’ll want them to be your partner on the wall as well. But what if you fall in love with someone who has no idea how to climb? You have three choices: Leave ‘em, deal … Continue reading Teaching Your Girlfriend to Climb
“Off belay!” “That’s me!” “On belay!” “Climb when ready!” Paired with a name, these become some of the basic verbal communications used on the wall between climber and belayer. Other than the rope and a couple pieces of protection, communication is the next most important thing to keep between each other. Communication on the wall … Continue reading Climb Safe: Planning and Communication on the Wall
Living in a van leaves you with a very limited amount of storage space. However, having limited space does NOT mean you need to have a limited rack. It may not be the world's largest gear collection, but what I do have, fits comfortably in the back of my vehicle/home and has given me plenty … Continue reading Trad Climbing: It’s Not the Size of the Rack, But How You Use it.